Barcelona's culinary scene is embracing a traditional Catalan morning meal, the 'esmorzar de forquilla' or fork breakfast, with numerous establishments across the city offering hearty dishes to start the day. El Periódico Barcelona recently highlighted a selection of these restaurants, from historic market bars to new ventures, that serve substantial, cooked breakfasts.
This traditional 'fork breakfast' typically involves savoury, hot dishes eaten with cutlery, providing a robust start to the day. It contrasts with lighter options like pastries or toast. The trend shows a strong connection to Catalan culinary heritage, popular with locals seeking an authentic morning experience.
New Ventures and Enduring Classics
Roger Sánchez, a former chef at Terra d'Escudella, recently opened Bullanga in the Sants district. This new establishment focuses solely on powerful breakfasts and midday menus. Meanwhile, Can Vilaró, located opposite Sant Antoni Market, has maintained its popularity for over a century. Its current owner, Sisco Vilaró, continues a family legacy that started in 1967 when his parents took over the bar. The previous owners had run it for at least 50 years before that, making it a true Barcelona institution.
Another notable addition is Can Marlau, where Ferran Soler, a chef with extensive experience from famous restaurants like Saüc, Tickets, and Bodega 1900, now owns his own place. His menu shows a strong focus on stews and traditional cooking. The Poble Sec district also hosts Bo de Bernat, run by the Filipino Dalisay family, led by Bernardo Dalisay. This restaurant offers some of the best Catalan dishes in Barcelona at affordable prices, including lamb tripe, cuttlefish croquettes, and rabbit with snails. Diners can even enjoy a lamb's head or baked cod early in the morning.
Market Life and Neighbourhood Gems
Barcelona's markets are central to the fork breakfast culture. Bar Solera, a bustling morning spot in Mercado de la Concepció, attracts customers with its gazpacho, omelette, and tripe. The legendary Pinotxo, now under the management of Jordi Asín Bayén's family, has reopened in Sant Antoni Market. It moved from La Boqueria following a legal dispute after the passing of its charismatic founder, Joan Bayén, known as Pinotxo. The Asín family, who ran the kitchen for years, now operates four stalls, from 18 to 21, at the new location.
In Zona Franca, Bar Iberia has earned a devoted following for its potato omelette with tripe. Granja Elena, a mythical establishment in the city, offers over 40 breakfast options. Carmen Bosch has managed the griddle for decades, preparing many crispy delicacies. These places show the dedication and hard work behind Barcelona's traditional breakfast scene.
Historic Establishments and Family Legacies
Several restaurants boast long histories, some nearing their centenaries. Bar-Bodega Bartolí in Sants has been serving customers since 1939, becoming a cult spot for breakfasts, aperitifs, and meals. El Xampanyet, founded in 1929, is almost 100 years old. Joan Carles Ninou leads the business, with his daughters, Laura and Mireia, set to continue the family tradition. This establishment is famous for its anchovies and cava.
Gelida, which will celebrate 80 years in 2026, serves 600 people daily. Gerard Llopart, an engineer, now runs the restaurant, following his father and grandfather. He notes the popularity of "Gandesa wine, 'capipota' [serves 100 portions of 'capipota' each day] and rum carajillo" among older patrons. Younger customers prefer "Gandesa porrón, eggs with chistorra and Baileys carajillo," according to Llopart. Oriol Lagé and Santi Olivella run Bodega Josefa in Farró, a bar nearing its centenary. They apply a fresh, respectful approach to 'nova cuina catalana', cooking dishes like 'pilota' Stroganoff with chips.
Evolving Traditions and Community Focus
Other establishments are adapting traditions. Vint-i-quatre on Diagonal, formerly Tapas 24, has new owners and features chef Carles Abellan as a gastronomic advisor. Abellan describes it as "a bar, eh, but a smart one." In La Ribera, three partners have joined forces to continue the classic offerings at Agullers, focusing on fork breakfasts, stews, and fine wines. Their philosophy is "a local place for the local area."
These restaurants collectively highlight the enduring appeal of the 'esmorzar de forquilla' in Barcelona. They offer a taste of authentic Catalan life, providing substantial and flavourful meals that power residents through their day. The continued success of both historic and new establishments shows the strong cultural value of this unique breakfast tradition.
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Originally published by El Periódico Barcelona. Read original article.
