Barcelona’s 70-month cured ham represents the pinnacle of Spanish charcuterie, with a single leg commanding €1,200 at a specialist city centre shop.
The extraordinary product, which undergoes nearly six years of maturation, is the creation of Manuel López of Reserva Ibérica, who has perfected the art of ultra-long curing through careful selection and climate control.
Barcelona’s 70-Month Cured Ham: A Master’s Selection
Manuel López, who learned his craft from his father at Barcelona’s famous La Boqueria market, now operates a premium outlet on Aribau with Diagonal.
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He travels annually to Guijuelo, Jabugo and Extremadura to personally select 8,000-10,000 hams. Consequently, only a few hundred meet his exacting standards for extended maturation. “They’re mine from the start,” López explains. “After a year of curing, I examine them and decide how much longer they should mature.”
The final selection is remarkably small. Only about 300 units reach the 70-month milestone each year, selling at twice the price of standard 100% acorn-fed Iberian hams. Furthermore, demand consistently outstrips supply, whether customers purchase whole legs or sliced portions. López previously experimented with 80-month hams but discovered 70 months represents the sweet spot. “Beyond that, they start to decline,” he notes. “With proper care, extended curing intensifies flavour and complexity.”
Not every ham can achieve this longevity. Successful candidates require excellent fat distribution and a substantial protective layer, both enhanced by the oleic acid from acorns during the montanera feeding period. Therefore, pigs consuming more acorns develop fattier legs better suited to prolonged curing. Additionally, López prefers hams from Guijuelo over Jabugo because cooler temperatures there facilitate slower, more consistent maturation.
The result justifies both the wait and the price. The 70-month ham offers exceptional tenderness and intense umami flavour, with its high oleic acid content creating a uniquely satisfying mouthfeel. This artisanal approach to food preservation reflects Barcelona’s growing appreciation for traditional crafts executed at the highest level, similar to the city’s commitment to preserving other aspects of its heritage like historic street names in Barceloneta.
López’s business has expanded significantly from its Boqueria origins. He now operates additional outlets in Sant Cugat (with an attached restaurant), Hiroshima, Hong Kong and Vienna, plus Reserva Ibérica The Kitchen in Barcelona itself. This growth demonstrates how traditional food craftsmanship can achieve international recognition while maintaining its artisanal roots. The 70-month cured ham stands as a testament to patience, expertise and uncompromising quality in Barcelona’s vibrant gastronomic scene.
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