Barcelona’s iconic Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria has joined forces with two of the world’s other great historic markets in a landmark bid for international protection. In a united front against the pressures of mass tourism, La Boqueria, Florence’s Mercato Centrale di San Lorenzo, and Kyoto’s Nishiki Market have formally applied for UNESCO recognition as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
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The joint application was officially submitted at the United Nations headquarters in Paris on Friday. This initiative aims to safeguard the markets’ living traditions, social function, and local character, all increasingly at risk of dilution into soulless visitor attractions. Representatives articulated a shared fear: these vibrant hubs of city life could devolve into what one source described as “a theme park without a soul,” catering more to passing tourists than to the local residents they were built to serve.
A Global Alliance Against ‘Themepark-ification’
The delegation in Paris included Jordi Mas, president of La Boqueria; Massimo Manetti, president of Florence’s Consorzio Storico Mercato Centrale; and Akira Shimizu, president of Kyoto’s market. They subsequently met with Fumiko Ohinata, the Secretary of Intangible Heritage at UNESCO. This represents a crucial final step before the organisation begins its deliberation process, which could take up to two years.
Massimo Manetti highlighted the common ground shared by the three culturally distinct markets. “Despite geographical and cultural differences, we face the same challenge: defending the history and tradition transmitted from generation to generation,” he stated, as reported by El Periódico. He insisted that “protecting them from depersonalisation and the loss of authenticity means protecting the living history of our cities.”
This sentiment is echoed in Kyoto. The 400-year-old Nishiki Market, often called “Kyoto’s Kitchen,” has faced criticism over congestion caused by tourists eating whilst walking – a problem familiar to both Barcelona and Florence. An official from the market told the Sankei Shimbun newspaper, “By registering the market as intangible cultural heritage, we hope customers will become more aware of the problem and improve their manners.”
More Than Just Bricks and Mortar
The application squarely emphasises the ‘intangible’-the culture, not just the construction. Jordi Mas, accompanied by Nadia Quevedo, Commissioner for Economic Promotion of Barcelona City Council, made this distinction clear. “We are not merely talking about protecting the building and its accredited architectural value,” Mas stated. “We aim to ensure the preservation of the markets as historical places, guaranteeing their intangible value.”
The goal is to protect the market’s entire ecosystem: the continuity of its lifelong stalls, the quality of fresh local produce underpinning traditional Catalan stew and other dishes, its distinct gastronomy, and the close, trust-based relationships between stallholders and customers. Additionally, the delegation met with Miquel Iceta, Spain’s ambassador to UNESCO, to discuss the bid.
“It may take two years, but the most important step, which is formally presenting our request to UNESCO, has already been taken,” Mas affirmed.
La Boqueria’s Fight on the Home Front
This international effort runs parallel to a series of local initiatives by La Boqueria, aiming to reclaim its status as a vital resource for Barcelona’s residents. Last year, the market announced a new regulation requiring at least half of every stall’s offerings to consist of traditional products, such as fresh food, charcuterie, fish, and baked goods. This move directly attempts to limit the proliferation of pre-prepared, tourist-oriented snacks.
Furthermore, a major renovation of the market’s rear facade, facing the Plaça de la Gardunya, is set to begin this summer. This entrance is intended to become the new main gateway for residents of the surrounding Raval neighbourhood, signalling the market’s desire to re-engage with its local community. The struggle to maintain local identity is a city-wide issue, as recently seen with the closure of a historic Gràcia espadrille shop after 146 years.
The UNESCO application is a pioneering move. The three founding markets hope it will inspire similar historic institutions worldwide to join the cause, creating a global network dedicated to preserving the authentic soul of our cities’ markets.
