Chef Fran López's Michelin-starred restaurant, Villa Retiro, in Xerta, Terres de l'Ebre, marks its 20th anniversary this year. It celebrates two decades of showcasing the region's rich Catalan gastronomy and cultural heritage. The establishment, which first opened its doors in 2006, has become a culinary landmark. It also acts as a driving force for sustainable tourism in the Baix Ebre area.
The anniversary celebration includes a special menu. This menu is designed as an homage to the Terres de l'Ebre. It features local ingredients and links dishes to significant regional landmarks. Fran López, who comes from a family of restaurateurs, emphasises his commitment to the territory. He often asks guests, "Have you visited the winery?" referring to the Celler Cooperatiu del Pinell de Brai. This approach extends beyond the restaurant walls, fostering a deep connection with the local environment.
Villa Retiro was originally known as "the millionaire's house." A lineage of "Indians," who returned from making their fortunes in the Americas, built this modernist home. Today, it stands as an oasis amidst extensive, meticulously maintained gardens. Maintaining such a pristine space requires immense effort. This makes it a popular venue for local weddings. López's business has significantly boosted the economy of the Baix Ebre region over the past two decades. It demonstrates how high-quality gastronomy can benefit its surroundings.
Celebrating Terres de l'Ebre Through Cuisine
The anniversary menu meticulously incorporates the region's biodiversity and history. Dishes reference natural sites like the Ullals de Baltasar. They also include historical landmarks such as Miravet Castle and the Knights Templar. The tower of L'Aldea hermitage also features. For instance, the fortification guarding rice fields inspires three distinct dishes. One of these is a cuttlefish and octopus rice. The Fangar lighthouse similarly inspires three more courses. These feature saffron eel stew, smoked eel with romesco sauce, and wild sea bass. This sea bass comes with jalapeño chilli escabeche, tear peas, Iberian ham, and dashi. Each course tells a story, educating diners about the rich land.
The menu also acknowledges recent environmental events. These include the Paüls forest fires. Fran López includes a smoked dessert, visible from Villa Retiro itself. This serves as a poignant reminder of nature's resilience and its potential for devastation. The restaurant earned its first Michelin star just three years after opening in 2006. It has consistently maintained this recognition. Inside, a majestic 300-year-old ficus tree dominates the restaurant. Its roots even extend into a deep well, visible from the main dining room. Fernando Marqués, the front-of-house manager, and Xavi Llopis, the sommelier, guide guests through this unique experience.
Architectural Gem: Celler Cooperatiu del Pinell de Brai
A key complement to the Villa Retiro experience is a visit to the Celler Cooperatiu del Pinell de Brai. This significant winery is located just a 15-minute drive away. Cèsar Martinell, a renowned disciple of Gaudí, designed this imposing building. A local syndicate commissioned its construction in 1918. It features a ceramic frieze by Xavier Nogués, known for his illustrations in publications like ¡Cu-cut! and L’Esquella de la Torratxa. The winery's history is crucial for understanding the region. It spans from the phylloxera plague to the Spanish Civil War.
The Celler Cooperatiu once lay abandoned. Fran López took charge of the space when he needed a vinification area. He restored it, transforming it into a museum. It now also includes a tasting room and a restaurant. López manages this restaurant, which operates on weekends. Eduard Santos, the museum director, reports significant success. He states that 25,000 people visit annually. This makes it a highly recommended destination for lovers of history, architecture, and gastronomy. Visitors can also enjoy tastings of local oils, such as the spectacular morruda variety, and wines.
Sustainable Tourism and Catalan Identity
Fran López advocates for "tourism with sense." He contrasts the situation in Barcelona, which he suggests might have an excess of visitors, with the Terres de l'Ebre. He asserts that the Delta region offers "much quality" over quantity. This positions it as a premier destination for those seeking authentic Catalan experiences. This commitment to regional identity and sustainable practices ensures Villa Retiro's continued role. It remains a beacon of high-quality gastronomy and cultural preservation in Catalonia.
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Originally published by Ara Cat. Read original article.
