Barcelona’s culinary scene is witnessing a growing debate over the proper preparation of pa amb tomàquet, a dish deeply intertwined with Catalan identity. Purists and chefs express concern over modern “sacrileges” that deviate from its traditional, simple method.
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This iconic dish, consisting of toasted bread rubbed with ripe tomato, seasoned with salt, and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, symbolises Catalan culture. However, a new wave of diners and culinary experts are criticising unconventional approaches.
Chef Ada Parellada of Restaurant Semproniana in Barcelona passionately states, “Without pa amb tomàquet, I would die.” She adds, “The dish is home, comfort.” Parellada encourages public “indignation” when the dish is poorly made, comparing it to Italian reactions to unorthodox pasta.
Preserving Authentic Preparation
Parellada specifically condemns methods such as grating tomatoes onto bread, using pureed tomato sauce with skins, or applying sauce with a brush onto sliced bread. “If they do it in front of us, defying our eyes, that is when I celebrate people getting angry,” Parellada explains, according to Leopoldo Pomés’ 1985 book. She highlights that the dish requires only four ingredients: bread, tomato, salt, and olive oil, all readily available and of high quality in Catalonia.
She acknowledges that high-volume restaurants might find pre-pureeing tomatoes quicker. However, she insists, “It is easy to prepare it correctly when they ask for pa amb tomàquet.” The quality of ingredients is paramount for an authentic experience. Ripe, red tomatoes prevent acidity, and olive oil should have a maximum acidity of 0.4.
Josep Mercader, founder of Motel Empordà and Hotel Almadrava, advocated for removing water and seeds from tomatoes and hanging them overnight. This method helps to achieve natural sweetness by allowing acidic liquids to drain. Visitors to Barcelona can experience the traditional preparation at establishments like Restaurant Trü on Carrer Còrsega, 232. Here, chefs ceremonially prepare the dish, toasting bread and rubbing it with ‘tomàquet de penjar’ (hanging tomatoes) in full view of diners, then adding salt and oil.
The Dish’s Historical Roots
The history of pa amb tomàquet stretches back centuries, though not as far as some might assume. Tomatoes arrived in Spain from the Americas with Spanish conquerors between the 16th and 18th centuries. Initially, their intense red colour caused suspicion, with some believing it a sign of the devil.
The first known literary reference to the dish appeared in 1884. Catalan writer Pompeu Gener mentioned it in a text, a fact later documented by journalist Néstor Luján in 1984. Artist Leopoldo Pomés further popularised this historical detail in his comprehensive 1985 book, “Teoria i pràctica del pa amb tomàquet” (Theory and Practice of Bread with Tomato).
Pomés’ book cites Gener’s phrase: “What we ate one night is bread with oil seasoned with tomato.” This established 1884 as the earliest recorded mention, though verifying the exact quote in Gener’s original work proves challenging. Before pa amb tomàquet, bread with oil and garlic was a common staple.
Orthodox Preparation Guidelines
Leopoldo Pomés meticulously outlined the orthodox method for preparing pa amb tomàquet. He specified using ‘pa de pagès’ (country bread), rubbing both sides with the “red and substantial varnish” of the tomato. Salt should follow, then a drizzle of olive oil.
The order of ingredients is crucial. Applying salt before oil ensures it adheres to the bread rather than sliding off. Pomés also advised against rubbing the tomato too vigorously; a gentle application that imparts a “red tint” is sufficient. He even suggested drizzling olive oil from a distance of 10 centimetres for optimal distribution.
Crucially, the tomato skins should not be included in the final dish. They serve only as a tool for handling the tomato while rubbing it onto the bread. Adding sugar to tomato sauce to reduce acidity is also considered an error by purists like Josep Mercader.
Economic Value and Cultural Versatility
In 1985, Pomés calculated the cost of preparing a slice of pa amb tomàquet at 17.60 pesetas, approximately 10 euro cents. While inflation has significantly increased this cost today, the dish remains an economical and versatile option. Despite its local significance, pa amb tomàquet has not achieved global icon status, unlike some other Spanish dishes. While Catalan chefs like Montse Guillén in New York and the Clos family in London and Madrid have featured it on menus, it remains largely a regional speciality.
Pa amb tomàquet serves as a staple for any meal. Residents enjoy it for breakfast, lunch, a snack, or dinner. It adapts equally well to a festive occasion or a simple, sustaining meal. This adaptability underscores its enduring appeal across Barcelona and Catalonia.
Ultimately, while pa amb tomàquet remains a powerful symbol of Catalan identity, the ongoing debate highlights a collective desire to preserve its authentic essence. This vigilance ensures that future generations can continue to enjoy this simple, yet profoundly significant, culinary tradition in its purest form.
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Originally published by Ara Cat. Read original article.
