Taverna del Clínic, a highly regarded restaurant in Barcelona's Eixample district, now celebrates its 20th anniversary. This establishment continues its tradition of "honest" cuisine and high-quality Galician seafood, marking a significant milestone in the city's gastronomic scene.

Chef Toni Simões, the restaurant's owner, reflects on two decades of operation. "It was meant to be for a month, and now it has been twenty years," he explains. Simões took charge at just 21 years old, stepping in when the planned head chef unexpectedly left.

A Family Legacy in Barcelona

The restaurant, located on Rosselló Street near Villarroel, sits close to the historic Hospital Clínic. Barcelona inaugurated this major hospital in 1906, replacing the older Faculty of Medicine, which dated back to 1401. Hospital Clínic became a reference institution for healthcare in Catalonia, performing its first transplant 61 years ago. This area of the Eixample has long served as a hub for local businesses and residents.

Toni's father, José Simões, a Galician migrant, established a strong culinary presence in the neighbourhood before him. José Simões arrived in Barcelona in 1973 as a teenager. He formed part of a significant migration wave from Galicia. Many Galicians moved to the city from the 1950s onwards, often finding work in the burgeoning bar and restaurant sector, according to Galician migration. José learned the trade quickly, working in places like La Font del Gat.

He later opened his own establishments, including the seafood restaurant O'Enxembre. In 1981, he opened Xalana, located next to Hospital Clínic. Xalana quickly gained a loyal clientele among hospital staff, patients, families, and local residents in Esquerra de l'Eixample. He served daily menus and hams in quantities that would surprise people today.

Taverna del Clínic's Genesis

Pepe Simões, always ambitious, saw potential in a former car workshop on Rosselló Street. He envisioned a new restaurant, an evolution of Xalana's kitchen, focusing on quality tapas and excellent produce. All preparations were complete for the inauguration. However, differences with the intended head chef left him without a cook.

His son Toni, then just 21 years old, had recently returned from Can Fabes. He had spent over a year there after studying cuisine at ESHOB. Toni initially felt too inexperienced and had other plans. However, he stepped forward, turning necessity into a virtue. He took the helm of his father's new establishment.

Honest Cuisine and Signature Dishes

Toni Simões describes his cooking as "honest." It roots itself in quality ingredients and well-executed techniques. He avoids the pressure to constantly surprise diners with novelties or a cooking style he dislikes. The restaurant's commemorative anniversary menu features several classics from the past two decades.

These include Iberian acorn-fed ham with tomato bread, reminiscent of Xalana's offerings. The iconic patatas bravas, served with the sauce inside, are another essential item. Simões predicts these patatas bravas will outlast him. Seasonal cream morels, which have seen various sauces over time, also feature.

The menu also brings back an endearing dish: the cod triphasic. This preparation involves confit, battered, and fried cod. Duck cannelloni and oxtail stew, made with beef and Priorat wine, complete the savoury offerings. For dessert, guests enjoy Santa Teresa toast, a comforting choice.

Evolution and Specialities

Taverna del Clínic has changed considerably over 20 years. It moved beyond its initial tapas bar atmosphere, which featured a large counter and a tiny kitchen. Toni Simões started alone in that kitchen, which eventually accommodated five people. He aimed to create a smaller version of Can Fabes, the kitchen where he honed his skills.

When the opportunity arose to expand the restaurant with the adjacent space, he took on debt without hesitation. This allowed for more tables and a larger kitchen. The original counter, where he worked marathon shifts, disappeared. Now, approximately 95% of the clientele are local diners, attended by service managed by Maria Valverde, Toni Simões' partner and business associate.

Sourcing and Future Outlook

A particular speciality of Taverna del Clínic is its fish. Simões works with a Galician supplier who uses artisanal rod-and-line fishing methods. Strict controls ensure maximum quality. The fish arrives without direct ice contact, bled, and rested, which improves both texture and flavour.

This commitment to quality Galician produce reflects the restaurant's Celtic roots in the heart of the Eixample. Many older Galician-run bars in the area, known for dishes like octopus, lacón, or Galician broth, have disappeared. Taverna del Clínic, however, thrives after two decades.

When asked about the future, Simões remains cautious. He states he would not want his project to become outdated. The restaurant aims to maintain its quality and relevance for years to come.

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Originally published by VilaWeb Feed. Read original article.